Chapter 01 · Start
Which FPV drone to buy as a beginner
There’s no “best” FPV drone: there’s the one that fits where you’ll fly and what you want to do. Here are the main types and the logical order to buy your gear.
Flying styles
Freestyle
Tricks and creative lines that make the most of the terrain: abandoned buildings, trees, mountains. It’s the most popular style and the one you learn the most from.
Racing
Courses marked out with gates and flags, against the clock or other pilots. Light, stiff and very twitchy drones.
Cinematic
Smooth, spectacular footage for video. Stability and the camera come before speed.
Long range
Flying far and for a long time, often in the mountains. Efficiency, the radio link and GPS safety rule here.
Types of drone
| Type | Prop | Where it shines | Keep in mind |
|---|---|---|---|
| Tiny whoop | 31–40 mm | Indoors, learning without fear | 1S, around 20 g, guarded props. The best companion to the simulator. |
| Toothpick | 2–3" | Parks, gardens, tight spaces | Ultralight and under 250 g, but fragile. |
| Cinewhoop | 1.6–3.5" | Filming close to people and objects | Prop guards: safer, but slower and with less flight time. |
| 3.5–4" | 3.5–4" | Light freestyle | A good compromise between power and weight. |
| 5" | 5–5.1" | Freestyle, racing, cinematic | The standard format, with the most parts and spares. Powerful, fast and dangerous. |
| 7" | 7" | Long range | Very efficient. Often with Li-ion and GPS. |
Cinewhoops up close
They’re small drones with a ring around each prop. That ring makes them safer to fly near people and indoors, and ideal for smooth, continuous shots.
Pros
Safer, calm and stable flight, perfect for video close to objects.
Cons
Less agile, slower and with less flight time because of the weight and drag of the ducts.
Tips
The 3" size is a good balance. Camera tilted 10–20°. Fly in acro: the footage comes out smoother.
Long range up close
- Size and weight: a 7" is more efficient than a 5". Strip out everything you don’t need.
- Batteries: Li-ion packs store more energy per gram than LiPos, in exchange for delivering less current. Plan your return with the wind in mind.
- Radio: ELRS at 2.4 GHz already gives plenty of range. Low packet rates (50–250 Hz) stretch it further at the cost of a little more latency.
- GPS Rescue: essential. Set it up and test it close by before you trust it.
- Recovery: a buzzer with its own battery and recording in your goggles so you know where it came down.
- Progression: start with short distances and extend them little by little, always with a spotter.
What order to buy things in
Radio with ELRS
You’ll use it in the simulator and with every future drone.
Simulator
At least 10 hours before your first real flight.
Goggles
Decide on the video system (analogue or digital) before buying the drone, because they have to match.
The drone
A tiny whoop to practise with and, later, your own 5" that you build yourself.
Batteries and charger
At least 4–6 packs per session and a balance charger.
Tools and spares
Spare props, arms, screws and antennas.
RTF
Ready To Fly: comes with everything (drone, radio and goggles). Easy, but it limits upgrades.
BNF
Bind-N-Fly: the built drone with a receiver. You just need to bind it to your radio.
PNP
Plug-N-Play: built but without a receiver. You fit whichever one you like.
DIY
You buy the parts and build it yourself. More work, but you’ll know how to repair everything.
Rough budget
| Item | Approximate range |
|---|---|
| Radio and simulator | 100–300 $ |
| Goggles | 100–500 $ |
| Drone | 100–500 $ |
| Batteries, charger and accessories | 100–500 $ |
| Total | 400–1,800 $ |
Rough figures in US dollars. Prices vary a lot depending on the brand and the video system.