FPV drone build course

Step by step

1. Control: the radio sends your stick movements over the air (2.4 GHz) to the receiver.
2. The receiver passes them to the flight controller, which reads the gyro thousands of times per second.
3. The flight controller decides how much power each motor needs and tells the ESC.
4. The ESC converts battery power into the three-phase current that spins the motors.
5. Video: the camera captures the image, the transmitter (VTX) sends it at 5.8 GHz and the goggles display it.

Step by step

1. Choose the voltage: for a 5" freestyle, 6S.
2. 2207 or 2306 motors between 1,750 and 1,950 KV (the range designed for 6S).
3. 4-in-1 ESC rated for 45–60 A continuous that supports 6S.
4. Check that the stack's hole pattern (30.5 or 20 mm) matches the frame's.
5. Make sure the frame has room for your camera and your video transmitter.

Step by step

1. Buy the radio first (EdgeTX and ExpressLRS) and use it with a simulator.
2. Practise for around 10 hours or more in the simulator before buying anything else.
3. Choose the video system and the goggles: decide which VTX and camera will go on the drone.
4. Buy the drone parts, checking compatibility as in the previous lesson.
5. Finish with the batteries (start with 4 or 5) and a balance charger.

Step by step

1. Stator size: the first four digits. A 2207 has a stator 22 mm in diameter and 7 mm tall.
2. Diameter or height: more diameter gives more torque (quick speed changes); more height gives more power at high rpm.
3. KV: how many revolutions per minute it does per volt, without a prop. A 1850 KV at 25 V spins at about 46,000 rpm.
4. The higher the voltage, the lower the KV: the idea is to reach a similar prop tip speed with less current.
5. Check the weight, the shaft diameter (M5 on 5", 1.5 mm on whoops) and the hole pattern (16 × 16, 12 × 12, 9 × 9…).

Step by step

1. Diameter: the first number, in inches. It must fit in the frame with a few millimetres of clearance between tips.
2. Pitch: how far the prop would advance in one turn. More pitch means more top speed and more current.
3. Blades: three is the standard in freestyle; two are more efficient (long range); four or more bite more in tight spaces.
4. Weight and stiffness: a light prop changes speed faster: more response and less propwash.
5. Mounting: M5 shaft on 5", T-mount holes on small motors and 1.5 mm shaft on whoops.

Step by step

1. Look up a motor's maximum thrust with your prop and your voltage (manufacturer's tables or the site's estimator).
2. Multiply it by four: that's the total thrust.
3. Weigh the drone with battery and camera: that's the flying weight.
4. Divide the total thrust by the weight. On a 5" freestyle, between 8 and 12.
5. The hover throttle is roughly weight ÷ thrust: with a ratio of 10, about 20–30% throttle (the curve isn't linear).

Step by step

1. Usable capacity: use about 80% of the mAh (don't go below 3.5 V per cell on LiPo).
2. Average draw: a 5" freestyle averages 20–35 A; a cinewhoop, 15–25 A; a 7" cruiser, 5–10 A.
3. Time: usable capacity in Ah ÷ average current × 60 = minutes.
4. Peaks: a 5" can demand 100–150 A for brief moments. The ESC should be rated around 45–60 A continuous per motor.
5. Battery: capacity × C must exceed the peaks with margin. But the C on the label is optimistic: compare batteries by the voltage they hold on the OSD.

Step by step

1. True X: motors equally spaced in all directions. It responds the same in roll and pitch: it's the basis of freestyle.
2. Stretched X: longer than wide. More stable in pitch and the rear props get less dirty air: preferred for racing.
3. Squashed X: wider than long. Rolls faster, but is less stable in pitch.
4. Deadcat: front arms swept out so the props don't show in the camera. Ideal for filming; needs its own tune.
5. Stiffness: 5–6 mm arms on a 5" freestyle, quality carbon and well-tightened screws. A soft frame vibrates and adds noise to the gyro.

Step by step

1. Processor: F4 is enough for most; F7 and H7 give you more ports and headroom for 8 kHz loops.
2. Gyro: the ICM-42688-P is the most common and runs at 8 kHz. The BMI270 goes up to 3.2 kHz and is noisier, but works well with good filtering.
3. Serial ports (UART): one for the receiver, one for digital video, one for the GPS and, if there’s a spare, one for ESC telemetry. Count them before you buy.
4. Regulators: 5 V at 2 A or more for the receiver, camera and LEDs; 9–12 V for the digital VTX.
5. Memory: 8–16 MB of flash for the Blackbox, or an SD slot. Stack (flight controller + ESC) for 3" or larger; AIO (everything on one board) for whoops and light drones, but if one part burns out, you replace the whole thing.

Step by step

1. Voltage (V): the difference in “pressure”. A full 6S LiPo is 25.2 V.
2. Current (A): how much electricity flows. A 5" can draw over 100 A in an instant.
3. Resistance (Ω): how much a material opposes the flow of current. A thick wire has very little.
4. Ohm’s law: current = voltage ÷ resistance. If the resistance is almost zero (a short circuit), the current skyrockets.
5. Power (W): voltage × current. 22 V × 50 A = 1,100 W: more than a microwave.

Step by step

1. Black probe in the COM socket, red probe in the VΩ socket.
2. V⎓ (DC voltage): batteries, 5 V and 9 V regulators.
3. Ω (resistance): wires, motors, checking a short circuit in more detail.
4. Continuity (the sound symbol): it beeps if there’s a connection. For finding short circuits and broken wires.
5. If your multimeter isn’t auto-ranging, pick a range higher than the value you expect (for a 6S, 200 V or 50 V).

Step by step

1. Dial on V⎓. Black probe to −, red to +.
2. Whole battery: measure at the XT60 connector. A full 6S reads about 25.2 V.
3. Per cell: measure at the balance connector, between the black wire and the first, the first and the second… All of them should be within 0.03 V.
4. Regulators: with the drone connected (through the smoke stopper), black to a G pad and red to the 5V pad. It should read between 4.9 and 5.2 V.

Step by step

1. Dial on continuity (the sound symbol). Touch the probes together: it should beep.
2. Touch the + and − of the XT60. If it beeps for a moment and stops, that’s the capacitor charging: normal.
3. If it beeps continuously or reads close to 0 Ω: there’s a short circuit. Don’t connect the battery.
4. Also check each motor wire against the negative: it must not beep.
5. To check a wire: one probe at each end. It should beep.

Step by step

1. Disconnect the battery. Dial on Ω at the lowest range (200 Ω).
2. Touch the probes together and note the value: it’s the probes’ resistance, which you’ll need to subtract.
3. Measure the three pairs of motor phases: A-B, B-C and A-C.
4. All three should give the same value (very low, a few tenths of an ohm). If one is very different, the winding is damaged.
5. Measure each phase against the bell: it should read OL (no connection).

Step by step

1. Soldering iron of 60 W or more, with temperature control and a chisel tip.
2. 63/37 rosin-core solder, 0.6–0.8 mm, and separate flux.
3. Multimeter with a continuity mode (the one that beeps).
4. Smoke stopper or fuse for the first connection.
5. Good-quality Allen keys (1.5, 2 and 2.5 mm), zip ties and double-sided tape.

Step by step

1. No props until the very end, once you’re at the field.
2. Before connecting anything, check with the multimeter that there’s no short circuit between + and −.
3. First battery always through the smoke stopper.
4. Charge and store LiPos in a fireproof bag, never unattended.

Step by step

1. Clean the tip with brass wool and tin it.
2. Put flux on the pad and tin it. Tin the tip of the stripped wire too.
3. Bring wire and pad together, heat them together and let the solder flow.
4. Remove the iron and don't move the wire until it cools.
5. Clean off the flux with isopropyl alcohol.

Step by step

1. Put flux and a little fresh solder on the old joint: it will melt much more easily.
2. Heat it and pull out the wire once the solder is liquid. Don't pull it cold.
3. To clean the pad, lay desoldering braid on it with flux and heat over the top: it will soak up the solder.
4. Clean with isopropyl alcohol and check the pad with a magnifier.
5. If a pad has come off, find the trace or hole (via) it connected to and solder the wire there, securing it with a drop of glue.

Step by step

1. Check each arm against the light: no cracks.
2. Sand the edges where wires will pass with fine sandpaper (do it wet so you don't raise carbon dust).
3. Fix the arms to the base. Tighten in a cross pattern, without forcing.
4. A drop of blue threadlocker on metal screws without a nyloc nut.
5. Leave the top plate off: that's where you'll mount the electronics.

Step by step

1. Place the motor with its wires facing the centre of the frame.
2. Hold a screw in place and look underneath: it must stay at least 1 mm short of the windings.
3. Secure it with four M3 screws, in a cross pattern.
4. Spin the bell with your finger: it should turn smoothly, without rubbing or clicking.

Step by step

1. Hold the ESC against the frame and cut the wires to length, leaving a little slack.
2. Strip about 2 mm and tin the ends.
3. Tin the three pads at each corner.
4. Solder each wire to its pad, making sure they don't touch each other.
5. Check with the multimeter that no phase is shorted to another or to negative.

Step by step

1. Cut the XT60 lead to just the right length: the battery must reach it without stretching it.
2. Red to +, black to −. Check it twice.
3. Heat well: these are the pads that need the most heat.
4. Solder the capacitor right next to the pads, respecting polarity (the stripe is the −).
5. Secure the lead to the frame with a zip tie so it doesn't pull on the joints.

Step by step

1. Multimeter on continuity between + and − of the XT60.
2. If it beeps for a moment and stops, that's normal: it's the capacitor charging. If it beeps continuously, there's a short circuit.
3. Connect the battery through the smoke stopper, without props.
4. Green light or off and the drone powers up: perfect. Solid red light: disconnect and check.

Step by step

1. Put the grommets on the stack posts.
2. Connect the cable between the ESC and the flight controller before lowering it.
3. Place the flight controller with the arrow pointing forwards.
4. Tighten the nuts only until they touch: the grommets need to be able to work.

Step by step

1. 5 V and ground (G) to the flight controller's power pads.
2. Receiver TX → board RX, and receiver RX → TX.
3. Note down the UART number (for example, UART2): you'll need it in Betaflight.
4. Place the antenna away from the carbon and the props, ideally in a V or T shape.

Step by step

1. Mount the camera at the front, tilted between 20° and 35° to start with.
2. Place the transmitter at the back, with good ventilation.
3. Screw on the antenna before powering anything on.
4. Route the antenna out the back, away from the props.
5. If it's digital, connect it to a UART to get the OSD in the goggles.

Step by step

1. Gently twist the motor wires and route them under the arms.
2. Protect the receiver and small connections with heat-shrink tubing.
3. Secure the battery lead to the frame with a zip tie, so tugs don’t reach the solder joints.
4. Route the antennas through 3D-printed tubes or mounts, away from the props.
5. Fit a non-slip pad and a good-quality strap for the battery.

Step by step

1. S: number of cells in series. Each cell is 3.7 V nominal: 6S = 22.2 V.
2. mAh: capacity. More mAh means longer flight time, but more weight.
3. C: discharge rating. It’s only a rough guide: brands inflate it. Compare brands, not numbers.
4. Power connector: XT60 on most 5" builds.
5. Balance connector (JST-XH): the thin lead used to charge every cell equally.

Step by step

1. Check the battery: if it’s swollen or has taken a knock, don’t charge it.
2. Put it in a fireproof bag or on a non-flammable surface.
3. Connect the XT60 and the balance lead.
4. On the charger: type LiPo (or LiHV if it is one), mode Balance, 6S, and current at 1C (1300 mAh → 1.3 A).
5. Stay nearby. When it’s done, unplug it.

Step by step

1. After flying, let it cool down before doing anything.
2. If you won’t use it for a day or two, set it to Storage on the charger (3.80–3.85 V per cell).
3. Store them somewhere cool and dry, in a fireproof box or bag.
4. Land when you reach about 3.5 V per cell at rest: below that, the battery suffers.
5. Log each battery’s cycles and number them.

Step by step

1. Signs: swollen, punctured, with cut plastic, or a cell that drifts out of balance much more than the others.
2. If it heats up or smokes, take it outside onto a non-flammable surface and move away.
3. To retire it, slowly discharge it with the charger (Discharge mode) down to the minimum it allows.
4. Tape over the connectors.
5. Take it to a battery collection point (recycling centre or shop).

Step by step

1. EdgeTX: the radio’s operating system. It manages models, switches and mixes.
2. ExpressLRS (ELRS) radio module: internal or external, it’s what talks to the drone’s receiver.
3. Sticks: in mode 2, the left one is throttle and yaw; the right one is pitch and roll.
4. Switches (SA, SB, SC, SD…): for arming, the beeper, turtle mode…
5. Update EdgeTX with EdgeTX Buddy from your computer before setting anything up.

Step by step

1. Band: 2.4 GHz is the most common (small antennas, many pilots at once). 900 MHz (868 MHz in Europe) penetrates obstacles better but needs bigger antennas.
2. One antenna (basic mode): enough for most 5" and smaller builds.
3. Antenna diversity: one chip and two antennas; the receiver picks whichever receives better.
4. True diversity: two chips and two antennas listening at the same time. More reliable; essential for Gemini mode.
5. Also look for TCXO (frequency stable with temperature), PA/LNA (more telemetry power and sensitivity) and the antenna connector (U.FL).

Step by step

1. Gemini: the radio sends the same packet on two separate frequencies. You need a Gemini radio and a true diversity receiver.
2. Gem-X: the same, but with one frequency at 2.4 GHz and the other at 900 MHz. You need a compatible dual-band radio and receiver.
3. In the ExpressLRS script, Antenna Mode: Gemini. For Gem-X, also choose a packet rate that starts with X.
4. With a single-antenna receiver, choose Ant1 or Ant2, not Gemini: the other antenna would only cause interference.
5. If you’re buying a new radio, a dual-band one with Gem-X will work with almost any future receiver.

Step by step

1. Calibrate first: System settings → Hardware → Calibration. Move the sticks to the extremes and the centre.
2. Create a new model and give it the drone’s name.
3. In the model settings, internal module: type CRSF (that’s what ExpressLRS’s protocol is called).
4. Leave the channel order at the default, AETR, which is what Betaflight expects.
5. Add a timer tied to the arming switch (for example, 3 minutes).

Step by step

1. Go to the model’s Mixes.
2. CH5 (AUX1): source SA, a two-position switch. This will be arm.
3. CH6: beeper. CH7: turtle mode. CH8: angle mode, if you want it.
4. On the Outputs screen, check that each switch moves its channel from −100 to +100.
5. In Betaflight, on the Modes tab, you’ll assign each channel to its function.

Step by step

1. Open it at SYS → Tools → ExpressLRS.
2. Packet Rate: more hertz = less latency but less range. 250 Hz is a good starting point for freestyle.
3. Telem Ratio: how many packets are used for telemetry. Leave the default value.
4. TX Power: dynamic, so it rises by itself when needed, with a reasonable maximum.
5. Check that the radio and the receiver have the same major ExpressLRS version: 4.x won’t connect to 3.x.

Step by step

1. With a phrase (recommended): pick a phrase and set it on the radio and the receiver (with the ELRS Configurator or the receiver’s WiFi web page).
2. Without a phrase: plug and unplug the drone three times in a row: the receiver LED will flash quickly (bind mode).
3. Then, in the radio’s ExpressLRS script, press Bind.
4. Solid LED on the receiver: bound. Slow flashing: no signal.
5. In Betaflight, on the Receiver tab, check that the sticks move the bars.

Step by step

1. With the drone powered on and bound, go to the model’s Telemetry page.
2. Press Discover new sensors: RQly, 1RSS, RxBt and others will appear.
3. RQly is the link quality (in %). The most useful one for knowing whether you’re at the limit.
4. Add an alarm (Special Functions) for when RQly drops below 70% and when the battery drops below 3.5 V per cell.
5. Try it in the workshop: move a bit further away or lower the power and listen for the warning.

Step by step

1. LQ (Link Quality): the percentage of packets that arrive intact. Ideally 100%; in normal flight it hovers between 90 and 100.
2. RSSI: the strength of the incoming signal, in dBm. It runs from 0 (very strong) down to about −130 (nothing). It’s always negative.
3. SNR: how much stronger the signal is than the background noise, in dB. The higher, the better.
4. LQ tells you whether the link works right now; RSSI and SNR tell you how much margin you have left.
5. With ExpressLRS, all three reach the radio (telemetry) and the OSD.

Step by step

1. Look at RSSI in dBm, not as a percentage: it’s the real number.
2. Know the limit for your packet rate. With ExpressLRS 4 at 2.4 GHz: about −105 dBm at 500 Hz and about −112 dBm at 150 Hz.
3. Margin = current RSSI − limit. At −85 dBm on 500 Hz, you have about 20 dB of margin.
4. Rule of thumb: every 6 dB of margin is roughly equivalent to doubling the distance.
5. Turn back well before you reach the limit: obstacles and turns can make the signal drop suddenly.

Step by step

1. Between 90 and 100%: normal. Small fluctuations are common.
2. Repeatedly below 90%: check antennas, orientation or interference.
3. At 70%: set the alarm on the OSD and on the radio. Bring it back towards you.
4. Below 50%: failsafe is imminent.
5. Remember that LQ drops very fast at the end: that’s why you need to watch RSSI too.

Step by step

1. SNR compares the signal with the background noise. Higher = better.
2. At 2.4 GHz and 500 Hz: below 5 dB is bad; above 9.5 dB is good.
3. At 150 Hz: below 0 dB is bad; above 8.5 dB is good.
4. Good RSSI but low SNR: there’s interference (WiFi, other radios, the drone’s own electronics).
5. Try moving the receiver antenna away from the VTX and power cables.

Step by step

1. On the Receiver tab, disable RSSI Channel and RSSI_ADC: with CRSF the data arrives via telemetry.
2. On the OSD tab, enable Link Quality, RSSI dBm Value and RSNR Value.
3. In the CLI: set osd_link_quality_alarm = 70
4. set osd_rssi_dbm_alarm = -95 and set osd_rsnr_alarm = 4.
5. Type save. Also set up the RQly alarm on the radio (telemetry lesson).

Step by step

1. High LQ, high RSSI, high SNR: healthy link. Enjoy.
2. High LQ, low RSSI: you’re approaching the range limit. Start heading back.
3. High LQ, high RSSI, low SNR: strong but noisy signal: interference.
4. Low LQ, RSSI and SNR: you’re at the limit. Come back now, gaining altitude if needed.
5. After flying, check the radio’s telemetry to see where the minimums were.

Step by step

1. Video: analogue and HDZero are usually between 10 and 20 ms; DJI and Walksnail, between 30 and 50 ms. More frames per second, less latency.
2. Radio link: between 5 and 25 ms depending on the system and packet rate. 250 Hz is a good balance.
3. Flight controller: the PID and filters add only a few milliseconds, but over-filtering adds up.
4. Motors: the time they take to change speed can reach 50 ms or more. Motors with enough torque and light props respond sooner.
5. A weak digital signal increases latency: good antennas and suitable power help too.

Step by step

1. At 250 Hz, a packet arrives every 4 ms; at 500 Hz, every 2 ms.
2. Each step, once differentiated, becomes a spike: the feedforward sees it as a stick kick and the motors make little jumps.
3. RC smoothing is a filter that joins the steps into a curve. Betaflight measures the packet rate by itself and adjusts the cutoff.
4. Order of magnitude of the cutoff: less than half the packet rate. Higher cutoff, less delay but more jumps.
5. Use a fixed rate. If the rate changes in flight, the smoothing can end up badly matched. In the CLI, rc_smoothing_info tells you which rate it detects.

Step by step

1. Backup: from the module's web page (WiFi), export the configuration, especially if you use Model Match or your own hardware settings.
2. Inventory: make a list of all your drones and receivers. The SPI receivers built into some AIOs stay on 3.x.
3. Radio: upgrade the TX module with the configurator or over WiFi.
4. Receivers: upgrade them all (over WiFi or through the flight controller). Use the same binding phrase.
5. Test: check the link quality and the switches in the Receiver tab before flying.

Step by step

1. LoRa (50–500 Hz): the classic modulation. The lower the rate, the more sensitivity and range.
2. FLRC (F500, F1000): very low latency for racing and close-range freestyle, with less range.
3. Modes that repeat packets (D250, D500…): they send every packet twice to be more robust, at the cost of a lower effective rate.
4. Telemetry: the ratio says how often one packet goes back. The default is fine; increase it only if you need more data (for example, GPS).
5. Change the rate on the radio; the receiver follows by itself. Then check RC smoothing in Betaflight.

Step by step

1. Dynamic power: the radio raises and lowers the power depending on the signal. Leave it on with a permitted maximum.
2. Limits in Europe: 100 mW of radiated power at 2.4 GHz and 25 mW at 868 MHz (with usage restrictions). Check the regulations currently in force.
3. Antennas: the receiver's one away from the carbon and the cables; the radio's one perpendicular to the drone's and not covered by your hand.
4. Return link: the receiver transmits at low power. If telemetry is lost before control, the problem is the receiver or its antenna.
5. Range test: on the ground, at minimum power, walk away and watch when the link quality drops. Compare between drones.

Step by step

1. VTX Admin: in the ExpressLRS script, choose band, channel and power and press Send VTx. Betaflight applies it to the VTX (VTX control must be working).
2. Radio Backpack: a small WiFi module that sends the channel to compatible goggles so they change by themselves.
3. Goggles Backpack: receives the channel, can start recording on arming and can send head tracking.
4. Bind the Backpacks with the same binding phrase you use in ExpressLRS.
5. Check it in the workshop with the VTX in pit mode: change channel from the radio and see that the goggles follow it.

Step by step

1. Create one model per drone in EdgeTX, named after the drone.
2. In each model, in the module settings, set a different receiver number (0, 1, 2…).
3. In the ExpressLRS script, enable Model Match with the drone powered on and bound: the receiver will store that number.
4. Test it: with another model selected, the drone should stay disconnected.
5. Use the same binding phrase for all your drones: it's simpler and Model Match already keeps them apart.

Step by step

1. Logical switch: a condition, such as “throttle below −95” or “SA up and L01”.
2. Safe arming: make the arm channel only turn on when the switch is up and throttle is low (with a condition that holds until you flip the switch down).
3. Special Functions: actions tied to a switch: play a sound, read out a value, vibrate or start a timer.
4. Example: with SB, have the radio announce your drone’s battery voltage.
5. Test every condition on the outputs screen and in Betaflight before flying.

Step by step

1. Telemetry page: Discover new sensors with the drone powered on and bound.
2. Calculated “per cell” sensor: total voltage ÷ number of cells. Easier to understand than the total.
3. Timers: one on the arm switch (flight time) and another on throttle above 10% (real motor time).
4. Alerts: in Special Functions, an alert when link quality drops below 70% and when the battery drops below 3.5 V per cell.
5. Assign a switch to hear the voltage on demand.

Step by step

1. Connect the radio to your computer in storage mode and copy the whole SD card to a folder with the date.
2. Create a template model with your switches, timers, alerts and sensors.
3. For each new drone, copy the template, rename it and change the receiver number.
4. To update, use EdgeTX Buddy: firmware and SD card contents of the same version.
5. After updating, check your models, alerts and stick calibration.

Step by step

1. Open app.betaflight.com with Chrome or Edge.
2. Connect the drone by USB, with no battery or props, and press Connect.
3. If the port doesn’t show up, try another cable: many are charge-only.
4. In the CLI tab, type diff all and press Enter.
5. Press Save to file and save it with the drone’s name and the date.

Step by step

1. Make a backup: Presets → Save Backup tab or diff all in the CLI.
2. In the Firmware Flasher, press Detect or choose the board by its exact name (the CLI version command tells you).
3. Stable version (they’re now numbered by date, like 2025.12). “Release candidates” may have bugs.
4. Turn on Expert Mode and tick Full chip erase. Cloud build: CRSF radio, digital or analogue OSD, DShot motors and only the options you’ll use (GPS, LED…).
5. If it won’t flash: DFU mode (boot button, or the bl command in the CLI), disconnect the GPS and receiver from the UARTs and, on Windows, use a DFU driver installer.

Step by step

1. Setup: move the drone and check that the 3D model does the same. Calibrate the accelerometer with the drone level.
2. Ports: enable Serial RX on the receiver’s UART; for digital video, VTX (MSP + DisplayPort).
3. Configuration: DShot300 or DShot600, Bidirectional DShot on, 14 motor poles.
4. Power & Battery: calibrate the voltage with the multimeter.
5. Save and reboot.

Step by step

1. Voltage: measure the battery with the multimeter and compare it with Power & Battery. If the difference is more than 0.1 V, use the Calibrate button.
2. Current: Current Meter Source to Onboard ADC (if the ESC has a sensor) and, in the OSD, mAh drawn.
3. Fly a full battery down to about 3.5 V per cell and note the mAh on the OSD.
4. Recharge it to the same voltage and note the mAh the charger put in.
5. New scale = current scale × (OSD mAh ÷ charger mAh). Round it and repeat 2 or 3 times.

Step by step

1. Receiver: Serial protocol, CRSF provider, AETR1234 map.
2. Move each stick: roll, pitch, yaw and throttle must move their bar towards 2000 in the right direction.
3. At rest: 1500 on the three axes and 1000 on throttle.
4. Modes: ARM on AUX1, BEEPER on AUX2 and FLIP OVER AFTER CRASH on AUX3, with the range on the switch’s high position.
5. Flick each switch and check that the bar lights up.

Step by step

1. With no props on, connect the battery and open the Motors tab.
2. Spin each motor at low throttle: 1 rear right, 2 front right, 3 rear left, 4 front left.
3. If the order doesn’t fit, use the motor reorder button.
4. If one spins the wrong way, change it with the spin direction wizard. If you use props-out, enable Motor direction is reversed.
5. Failsafe: arm with no props, raise the throttle a little and switch the radio off: the motors must stop.

Step by step

1. OSD: average cell voltage, Link Quality, flight time, consumption and warnings. Nothing else to start with.
2. PID: leave the values at default for the first flight.
3. Presets: you can apply a community baseline tune for 5", but read what it changes.
4. Rates: the same as in the simulator. If you don't have any, a maximum speed of around 500–650 °/s.
5. Save a final backup with diff all.

Step by step

1. Acro: the stick commands the rotation rate. If you leave it centred, the drone holds the angle it had. It's the mode for freestyle and racing.
2. Angle: the stick commands the angle and, when you release it, the drone levels out. Useful for learning and for relaxed flights.
3. Horizon: like angle near the centre and like acro at the extremes. Allows flips with some assistance.
4. Air mode: keeps motor control with the throttle at zero. Essential for freestyle; in current versions it comes enabled.
5. Altitude hold and position hold (recent versions): they need a barometer or GPS and are for relaxed flying and filming, not freestyle.

Step by step

1. You need DShot (it's what allows the motors to spin in reverse).
2. Modes tab: assign FLIP OVER AFTER CRASH to a two-position switch.
3. In the field: disarm, turn on the turtle switch and arm. Now the roll or pitch stick flips the drone towards that side.
4. Give short bursts. If it doesn't turn within 2–3 seconds, stop: a prop is stuck.
5. Disarm, turn off turtle mode and arm normally again.

Step by step

1. Centre sensitivity: how many degrees per second for each unit of stick near the centre. Lower means more precision in fine movements.
2. Maximum rate: degrees per second with the stick fully over. Freestyle: 600–850 °/s; cinematic: 300–500 °/s.
3. Expo: how quickly the response goes from the centre to the extreme. More expo, softer at the centre.
4. Rates systems (Betaflight, Actual, KISS…) say the same thing with different numbers. Use the site's converter to convert between them.
5. Throttle: with throttle mid and throttle expo you can make the hover zone more precise.

Step by step

1. Stage 1: for a brief moment (the guard time), Betaflight holds the last values or centres the sticks, in case the signal comes back.
2. Stage 2: if it doesn't come back, it applies the procedure: Drop (stops the motors), Landing (descends at low throttle) or GPS Rescue.
3. For close-range freestyle, Drop is the most predictable. With GPS, GPS Rescue.
4. The receiver must be set to send nothing when it loses signal (ExpressLRS already does this by default).
5. Test it without props: arm, raise the throttle a little, switch off the radio and check that the motors stop (or do what you chose) in the expected time.

Step by step

1. In the CLI, status shows the warnings that prevent arming. The site's assistant explains them one by one.
2. Throttle: it must be fully down. If it won't arm, check in Receiver that the throttle reaches about 1000.
3. Angle: it won't arm if the drone is tilted too far (by default, about 25°). It can be changed, but leave it as it is at first.
4. Prearm: a second switch that must be activated before arming. It stops you arming by accident with a knock.
5. Buzzer: sounds when arming, when the signal is lost and when the battery is low. Very handy for knowing the status without goggles.

Step by step

1. Buzzer: on the BZ+ and BZ− pads. In Betaflight, enable the beeper on signal loss and assign a BEEPER switch.
2. LEDs: addressable LED strip on the LED pad, powered at 5 V. Set up in the LED Strip tab. They help you orient yourself and find the drone at night.
3. GPS: put the coordinates on the OSD and record the DVR: the last frame tells you where it was.
4. Locator with its own battery: a small beeper that activates when the drone loses power. Essential for long range.
5. Practise: hide the powered-on drone in the grass and find it by sound.

Step by step

1. Backup: diff all in the CLI, and save it. Save it in the site's hangar too.
2. Flash: the stable version for your board, with full chip erase.
3. Basics by hand: ports, receiver, modes, motors (protocol, poles, order) and OSD. These are the ones that change most.
4. The rest: run the old diff through the assistant's version-changes tool, which flags the parameters that have changed, and apply it in parts.
5. Test: without props, motor direction, failsafe and switches. Then a short, relaxed flight.

Step by step

1. diff all: shows only what differs from the defaults. It's the ideal backup.
2. get name: shows a parameter and its possible values. get dshot shows all those containing “dshot”.
3. set name = value: changes it. You can check it with another get.
4. save: saves and reboots. Without save, everything is lost when you disconnect.
5. status, version and resource help with diagnosis (arming warnings, exact version and pins).

Step by step

1. Pick a GPS with an M10 chip and the UBLOX protocol that sees more than 10 satellites outdoors.
2. Connect 5V, G, and GPS TX to board RX and RX to TX.
3. Use a hardware UART, not SoftSerial.
4. If it has a compass (SDA/SCL), only connect it if you’re going to calibrate it; it isn’t needed for rescue.
5. Mount it on top, facing the sky and away from the video antenna and the receiver.

Step by step

1. Enable GPS in Configuration and assign it to the UART in the Ports tab (57600 for 10 Hz).
2. GPS tab: UBLOX, Auto Config, Galileo and Set Home Point Once.
3. Enable and calibrate the accelerometer: rescue flies in angle mode.
4. Use a PID loop of 4 kHz or less.
5. Before taking off, wait for 10 satellites or more and about 30 seconds for the altitude to settle.

Step by step

1. Failsafe (expert mode): Stage 2 = GPS Rescue.
2. Return altitude: fixed (for example, 50 m if there are trees and hills) or the maximum of the flight.
3. Return speed: around 15–17 m/s for a 5" or a 7". Never below 2 m/s.
4. Throttle: measure the hover throttle at half battery and set it as “hover”; minimum below and maximum above.
5. Sanity checks: “Failsafe Only”. Never all disabled.

Step by step

1. On the bench, without props: assign a switch to GPS RESCUE and another to a test failsafe. Check that the OSD shows RESC.
2. In the field, somewhere open and with 8 satellites or more, take off and move 50–100 m away at low altitude.
3. Flip the failsafe switch. Watch the home arrow: the drone should turn round and come back.
4. Without a compass, give it 5–10 seconds to get its bearings.
5. Regain control by switching it off. Then remove the test failsafe from the modes.

Step by step

1. BLHeli_32: very common on 32-bit ESCs, but it no longer gets new updates.
2. AM32: open source and under active development. Many modern ESCs already come with it from the factory.
3. Bluejay: open firmware for BLHeli_S (8-bit) ESCs. It adds bidirectional DShot.
4. Check your ESC’s datasheet to find out which one it has and whether it can be changed.
5. Only change firmware if you know your ESC is compatible.

Step by step

1. Connect the drone by USB and connect the battery (the ESCs need power), without props.
2. Open the configurator: ESC Configurator (web) for AM32 and Bluejay; BLHeliSuite32 for BLHeli_32.
3. Connect and press Read Settings.
4. Change whatever you need (for example, a motor’s direction).
5. Press Write Settings and disconnect the battery.

Step by step

1. PWM: 48 kHz for most (less gyro noise, smoother flight). 24 kHz for racing (more torque, but it can vibrate).
2. Motor timing: 24° gives more torque and less risk of desync; 16° is more efficient for long range.
3. Demag: default; raise it to “High” only if you get desyncs.
4. Rampup power: 20–30% on 3" to 5" to limit current spikes.
5. Dead time and the other options: don’t touch them unless you know exactly what they do.